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Prepping Your Garden Space Early
#21
Sorry, i am a bit tired to write my own explanation, and i do not follow all advice for moon planting.

http://www.the-gardeners-calendar.co.uk/...anting.asp
http://www.ourgardengang.com/moonplanting.htm
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#22
(01-09-2013, 12:04 AM)Jmath Wrote: Anyone know the name of a good pie pumpkin or suitable squash?
Sugar bear pumpkins are small and easy to grow. I think they are a hybrid, but they make good pies. They peel and can easily too.

Does anyone know what I could plant where a walnut tree used to be? It was hollow and had to be removed years ago. I can't get anything to grow there. I can't put a tree there, it's next to a building.
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#23
(01-25-2013, 09:08 PM)undefined Wrote: Does anyone know what I could plant where a walnut tree used to be? It was hollow and had to be removed years ago. I can't get anything to grow there. I can't put a tree there, it's next to a building.
It will be difficult to grow something here Kraanky a s walnut trees exude their own toxicity.

Though grown primarily for its wood and nuts, black walnuts are often found growing on landscape sites where they serve primarily as shade trees. When certain other landscape plants are planted near or under this shade tree they tend to yellow, wilt, and die. This decline occurs because the walnut tree produces a non-toxic, colorless, chemical called hydrojuglone. Hydrojuglone is found in leaves, stems, fruit hulls, inner bark and roots. When exposed to air or soil compounds, hydrojuglone is oxidized into the allelochemical juglone, which is highly toxic.
Several related trees such as English walnut, hickories and pecan also produce juglone, but in smaller amounts compared to black walnut. Juglone is one of many plant-produced chemicals that can harm other plants in a process known as allelopathy.

Juglone is exuded from all parts of the walnut tree. Juglone can affect other plants either through root contact, leakage or decay in the soil, falling and decaying leaves, or when rain leaches and drips juglone from leaves and branches onto plants below. Plants located beneath the canopy of walnut trees are most at risk because juglone from the roots and fallen leaves accumulates there.
Although juglone has low water solubility and does not move far in the soil, small amounts may be injurious to sensitive plants. Plant roots can encounter juglone when they grow within 0.5 - 0.25 inches from a walnut root. Walnut roots can extend in the soil well beyond the crown or drip line of the tree, affecting susceptible plants far from the black walnut.
The accumulation and depletion of toxins in the soil is affected by factors such as soil type, drainage, aeration, temperature and microbial action. Soil microorganisms ingest allelochemicals as energy sources, and metabolic decomposition can render the chemicals non-toxic to plants. When soils are well drained and aerated, a healthy population of aerobic microorganisms can accelerate this process.
Wet, poorly aerated soil, very common in many urban areas, discourages microbial growth. Plants sensitive to the walnut tree's toxic effect may be at a higher risk when planted in heavy urban soils that lack organic matter. Toxins adhere to organic matter rather than being absorbed by plants, and organic matter also encourages a healthy soil microbial population.
Mycorrhizal fungi are commonly associated with forest tree roots and are considered necessary for normal uptake functions. Allelochemicals can disrupt the uptake process by damaging the root hairs or by inhibiting mycorrhizal populations in the soil. These different soil factors all have an effect on the accumulation or depletion of juglone produced by the black walnut tree.


Well that's why it will be difficult to plant in ths spot, now i have to think what may be rugged enough to survive all this poison.


These plants will be damaged by the toxins so do not plant these:
  • apple
  • azalea
  • birch, white
  • blackberry
  • blueberry
  • chrysanthemum
  • crocus, autumn
  • forget-me-not
  • grape, domestic
  • lily-of-the-valley
  • linden
  • mountain laurel
  • peony
  • pine
  • potato
  • rhododendron
  • thyme
  • tomato
These trees and shrubs will tolerate the toxins:
  • arborvitae, American
  • ash, white
  • barberry
  • beech, American
  • birch, black; 'Heritage' river
  • boxelder
  • buckeye, Ohio
  • catalpa
  • cherry, black
  • crabapple
  • daphne
  • dogwood, flowering
  • elderberry
  • elm, American
  • forsythia
  • fringetree
  • goldenraintree
  • globeflower
  • gum, black
  • hawthorn
  • hemlock, Canadian
  • hibiscus
  • hickory
  • holly, American
  • honeylocust
  • honeysuckle, amur; tatarian
  • hydrangea
  • lilac
  • locust, black
  • maple, red; sugar; black; Japanese
  • ninebark
  • oak, white; red; scarlet
  • pawpaw
  • pear, callery
  • pine, Virginia
  • privet
  • red cedar, eastern
  • redbud, eastern
  • sassafrass
  • serviceberry
  • silverbell, Carolina
  • spruce, Norway
  • sumac
  • sweetgum
  • sycamore
  • tulip tree
  • viburnums (some species)
  • witchhazel
And here are a few flowering plants and vines that will survive where there was a walnut tree:
  • anemone
  • aster
  • astilbe
  • bee balm
  • begonia
  • bittersweet
  • calendula
  • clematis (virginsbower)
  • coral bells
  • creeper, Virginia
  • daffodil
  • daisy, shasta
  • daylily
  • evening primrose
  • fern
  • geraniums, hardy
  • goldenrod
  • grape, wild
  • hollyhock
  • hosta
  • hyacinth, grape; oriental
  • iris, siberian
  • ironweed
  • jack-in-the-pulpit
  • lamb's ear
  • liriope
  • lobelia
  • may apple
  • morning glory
  • mullein
  • phlox
  • primrose
  • raspberry, black
  • rose, wild
  • rudbeckia
  • scilla
  • sedum
  • speedwell
  • spiderwort
  • St. John's wort
  • sunflower
  • trillium
  • tulip
  • violet
  • wisteria
  • yarrow
I make dyes from the leaves of walnut trees, and we use a concoction made from the blackened outer shells of the nuts, to make a disinfectant for our beehives.

Hope this gives you some ideas.
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#24
CROP ROTATION FOR SMALL PLOTS

However small your plot it is still important to rptate your crops, it keeps the soil healthy, and protects the crops from some diseases.

Plot rotation
Vegetables can be ordered into four main groups, so choose the vegetables you like from each of these groups.
  • Group one - Potatoes, beetroot, carrots, chicory, artichokes, parsnips and salsify
  • Group two - Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, swede and turnips
  • Group three - Peas, all types of beans
  • Group four - All other vegetables and salad crops
Once you've made your selection, divide up your plot into four beds. Grow vegetables in four separate beds, grouped according to our guide. The reason for this 'grouping' is that you should not grow the same vegetable in the same place year after year. You may find other suggestions of which crops to put where, but the important thing to know is that continuous cropping of the same plant can exhaust the soil of nutrients and pests and diseases can build up.
The answer to this potential problem is consistent plot rotation: in your second year of vegetable growing, your vegetables will 'move up' one bed. Your group two vegetables will be planted where the group three vegetables previously were, group three moves to the group four bed and so on. This allows the soil to recover, and the rotation can even be beneficial to future vegetables: for example, the nitrogen that peas and beans naturally deposit in the soil is perfect for encouraging growth in cauliflowers and cabbages.
When you're laying out your vegetable plot, bear in mind these starter tips:
  1. Beds about 1.2m (4ft) wide with paths all around are perfect, because you can water and weed without having to tread on the bed.
  2. Leave sufficient space between the beds to allow easy access to the plants. A path with a hard surface the width of a wheelbarrow is ideal.
  3. Make sure there is a source of water nearby. It may be worth investing in an outdoor tap or installing a rainwater butt nearby.
  4. If your soil is poor or doesn't drain well, consider building raised beds. By creating a retaining wall from bricks or old railway sleepers, you can add a thick layer of organic material that will improve the soil. In addition, raised beds are easier to tend and don't need digging over in the autumn.
  5. If you've only got a small space, choose early or dwarf vegetable cultivars as they require less space and can be planted closer together.
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#25
I always spend some time drawing out a plan for my garden every year about now.  My Moon Planting Diary has a double page spread of squared paper which is ideal, but you could start an old pad or school book for this so that you can keep track of your beds and which crops you grew.  I like tjis being in my weather diary as well so that i can keep track of the yield from each plot and the prevailing weather conditions.  Drawing a garden plan is a great occupation for a cold winter Sunday, with a nice hot bowl of veg soup. Made from last summer's vegetables just to remind you of things to come this year.
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#26
You are so ahead of me......yikessss. Now I have to get my crap in gear and plan ahead too. Thank you for putting the fire under my butt to get me motivated. Confusedmile:

I'll let you know later on how I am fairing, maybe need help.
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#27
@Libellula

Thank you! I just bet ya I'll throw some potato peels in there and see what happens. Surely one potato won't kill me and if it does, I'm ready. It's good dirt.
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#28
@kraankyolelandy  it would be too early over here for potatoes, we plant them out in March on the new moon usually.  I lost alot  last year though to soggy wet weather which is unusual for us here in the mountains. 

Does anyone have a quick link to a chart which shows me the zones you adhere to in the US for planting?  May be able to work out where we are in relation to this.
Thanks
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#29
I answered my own question here.....a link to the US Hardiness Zones:

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/


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The link is in case you cannot make the picture larger.  It is still quite difficult to find where we in the Pyrenees would be in comparaison, but i guess 7a, 7b if this is only based on extreme minimum temperatures, but we also have very hot, getting hotter summers.

Do you refer to these zone guides when planting? Does this work.?
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#30
I found a great pdf file on crop rotation which is very clearly set out.  I have printed a copy for my survival files, just in case to back up my Kindle and Ipad.

http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/schools_...tation.pdf
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